Finding
herself at a major crossroads after losing her university job in Japan, Amy
Chavez consults her friend Mr. Norimi, a Buddhist priest, for advice. He persuades
her to attempt an 88 temple pilgrimage that covers a total of 900 miles on
Shikoku Island. Perhaps doing this pilgrimage might bring some form of
enlightenment or guidance from Kobo Daishi (the founder of Shingon Buddhism).
So Amy Chavez becomes, in her own words, a “reluctant pilgrim”—although she
wasn’t even a Buddhist, and wasn’t even sure if she belonged to any particular
faith at all.
She
decides to not just walk the pilgrimage, but to run it. This would add an
exciting twist to her journey and make a better series of articles for the Japan Times. Plus, she’s in a big hurry
to find out Kobo Daishi’s answers to her questions and figures running may
speed along the process. She needs to figure out how to find a new job ASAP and
move on with life. This is the upbeat tone that sets the adventure on a running
start: the voice of an exuberant woman of action. She starts off with the
determination of a marathon runner with a clear-cut A to Z goal, and ends up experiencing
life-changing lessons in acceptance, humility, and appreciation.
“Running the Shikoku Pilgrimage” works
on many levels: as an inside glimpse into Japanese society, an extraordinary travel
memoir, a tale of personal endurance and transformation, and an introduction to
the religions of Japan. It flows at a jogging pace and with just enough detail to
bring you along every challenging step of the way as Amy pushes her limits on
rough terrain, wearing a pilgrim’s white vest over her only set of clothes and
carrying the bare essentials on her back. On her journey she encounters the amusing
peculiarities and amazing kindnesses of a wide range of characters—the Yakult
lady, TV crews, monks, other pilgrims, and many curious and compassionate
strangers.
Amy’s spirit, humor and adventurous
nature infuse the story with energy and optimism. Don’t let her levity of tone fool
you, however—her knowledge and love of Japan run deep. At around temple 37, she
ruminates on her enthrallment of Japan’s countryside and older, quieter ways,
reflecting on her peaceful life on the little island of Shiraishi. She
describes her deepening connection with the traditional and “real” Japan, the
Japan that remains in touch with nature and its ancient rhythms, with its
“charms of Shinto background and Buddhist soul.” She begins to understand, now
that she has some distance from her existence in the ordinary realm and can
view it afar from the realm of the pilgrimage, that “the more I learn about the
pilgrimage, the more I realize I started this journey from the moment I moved
to Shiraishi Island. I was drawn to the countryside. I felt the pull of nature…Nature
is in Buddha and Buddha is in nature.”
There are many details to relish in “Running the Shikoku Pilgrimage” (in
particular I loved the list of “cosmic tools” necessary for the undertaking)
and I appreciated the rich and varied balance between social commentary, history,
religion and personal background. Buddhist/Shinto history and terms are
interwoven deftly throughout with accessibility and humor. There is just enough
information to keep the pace moving and enlighten the reader so you want to
know more, but it never gets too esoteric or overwhelming for the reader with
little or no knowledge of Japanese spiritual traditions.
A pilgrimage is meant to test your endurance, and in this way, hopefully,
you evolve as a human being. This transformation is evident in the author. She
begins with resistance which grows into acceptance; an innate bravado and
overconfidence giving way to humility and the realization of her own
shortcomings, and finally a level of deeper awareness is achieved, with a
satisfying resolution at the end. Amy shares many lessons that deepen her
character and spirit, such as her breakthrough regarding “osettai”—the act of
giving and sharing things with those on pilgrimage—a lesson on giving and
receiving that we could all learn. There is an inspiring moment of insight into
her own dependence on others, and on the interconnectedness of all things—even
the various religions in Japan, which coexist in peace—and how there are small
miracles daily if we learn to see them and open ourselves to the universe. Many
of these concepts related to Buddhism as applied to daily life are beautifully
explained and feel universal in a way that should ring true for many readers.
About Amy Chavez:
American ex-pat Amy Chavez has been a columnist for The Japan Times since 1997. She has been back to Shikoku several times since her original journey and has walked and bicycled the pilgrimage. Amy lives on Shiraishi Island in Japan's Seto Inland Sea along with her husband, her cat, her neighbor Mr. Norimi and his wife, and the other colorful island characters. In her free time she can be found jogging the island's replica Shikoku Pilgrimage or meditating with her cat.
About Amy Chavez:
American ex-pat Amy Chavez has been a columnist for The Japan Times since 1997. She has been back to Shikoku several times since her original journey and has walked and bicycled the pilgrimage. Amy lives on Shiraishi Island in Japan's Seto Inland Sea along with her husband, her cat, her neighbor Mr. Norimi and his wife, and the other colorful island characters. In her free time she can be found jogging the island's replica Shikoku Pilgrimage or meditating with her cat.
