Hanauta Okinawan Izakaya in Akasaka

Hanauta's welcoming interior with handmade glass lamps.

Hanauta menu.

Zampa awamori in traditional Okinawan glass, colorful bingata fabric background.

Sukugarasu, salt-cured fish on tofu. Those bright yellow and red chopsticks are very Okinawan - I grew up eating with these and they made me very natsukashii (nostalgic).

Mimigaa, crunchy vinegared pig's ears, and umibudo, caviar-like "sea grapes" (a type of seaweed).

Rafute, melt-in-your-mouth braised pork belly.

Delicious miso broiled goya. 

Okinawan soba topped with soki (spareribs) and ginger garnish.

It was a rainy Sunday night in Akasaka, and I wandered the quiet streets feeling a little samishii, looking for the right place for dinner. Nothing sounded quite right, and Akasaka being more of an area catering to the business crowd, many restaurants were closed on Sunday.

Then I heard sanshin music coming from an entryway, faint and familiar.  I found Hanauta restaurant, an Okinawan izakaya, and went in, where I was immediately comforted by the warm atmosphere, colorful decor, homey dishes, soothing awamori and congenial service. I had the place to myself so service was especially attentive, and I spent some time chatting with the Okinawan waiter. I was so at home I ate, drank, scribbled in my journal and stayed a while. This meal at Hanauta was probably the highlight of my trip.

I think I scared the waiter with my bottomless appetite, but everything was so good I wanted to try it all. I stuffed myself with some favorites - umibudo, mimigaa and rafute (above) - and also tried a couple of new dishes like the tiny and tasty sukugarasu - brined suku fish on tofu (excellent with awamori), and something I've never encountered that was recommended, half a goya broiled with miso. This was a savory-bitter, crunchy and delectable surprise, something I'd like to try and recreate at home.

After finishing all this, I expressed my regret to the waiter that I had no room for Okinawan soba. He informed me they had mini half-portions - yes! So of course, I had to end with that.

I highly recommend this place if you're ever in Tokyo. Address to come - I need to find their business card.