Monday, May 3, 2010

Izakaya Nombe in San Francisco



I had one of the most memorable meals in a long time at Nombe. Their food is outstanding within any category, not just Japanese. The last time I had such an impressive Japanese-inspired dining experience in the Bay Area was at the now-defunct Medicine ( a vegetarian "new shojin" restaurant formerly located in the Crocker Galleria). 

I don't have any really good photos to represent my experience, but this is what we tried from their regular and specials menu - the kind of innovative dishes you'll be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the city:

Mission motsu (spicy grilled tripe with lime)
House karasumi (dried mullet roe, similar to bottarga) with radish and lemon
Sea bass roe with ponzu and grated daikon
Cherrystone clam suimono with peas, pea tenrdrils, wakame, sea beans
Grilled odango (slightly sweet rice balls, picture above)
Grilled chicken thigh with ume and shiso

Everything was spectacular, but the real standout for me was the cherrystone clam suimono, served chilled. The clams were vibrant in flavor, the broth was so fresh tasting, with the added complexity of extra virgin olive oil floating on the surface - I spooned up the entire contents, trying to restrain myself from drinking straight from the serving bowl. And extra points just for using beautiful, unusual sea beans (salicornia) - the only other time I've been served this exotic ingredient was during a multi-course dinner at the above-mentioned Medicine.

Gil Payne, Nombe's sake sommelier (and co-owner), is passionate about what they pour and generous with information and advice on food/drink pairing. And - the first I've seen this in the U.S. - there's awamori on the menu!  Noticing that on the drink menu immediately put Nombe in a class of its own.

The one and only minus to my experience was the rather uncozy interior. The space housed a diner in a former life, and it still feels like a diner - charmingly retro in its own way, but nothing like a Japanese izakaya. However the food, sake and service are so awesome you'll quickly forget your surroundings.

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