Izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook

 

Mark Robinson's Izakaya cookbook is a phenomenal addition to any foodie's library.  In his introduction: "I believe that the izakaya is overdue to become one of the biggest Japanese cuisine trends abroad since the sushi bar." I've thought this myself for some time, griping for years now that even a basic yakitori-ya is a rarity over here. But true to his prediction, izakaya have been trending here in California - although I'd argue that most establishments calling themselves "izakaya" aren't exactly what you expect in Japan.

So what exactly is an izakaya?  The commonly accepted translation is "pub," a casual eatery offering food, drink and a relaxed atmosphere that welcomes socializing. The key factor for izakaya is that food and drink have equal importance, so it's perfectly acceptable to linger over several rounds of drinks with hardly a nibble, or to stay for several rounds of dishes shared with friends and make a full meal of it. 

I think another important element is atmosphere, and that's generally where restaurants in the States fall short of feeling like authentic izakaya. We just can't capture that sense of gemütlichkeit as they'd call it in Vienna. Here, it seems acceptable that as long as you offer several common variety small dishes and a selection of sake on the menu, you can pass yourself off as an izakaya - despite the fact that you also have a full sushi bar, offer tempura dinners and teriyaki on half the items, which is the way of most Japanese-American restaurants. 

In Japan the izakaya isn't just a place for casual dishes and booze, but in Robinson's words, "a community hub with a cast of characters and ongoing narratives," a place where you often have "ichigo ichie" (once in a lifetime) encounters and experiences. As the evening progresses diners can select dishes that suit their mood, relax and talk openly, and be more themselves.

Robinson covers not just the history of izakaya and an overview of izakaya drinking, but also a nice chapter on "Japanese aromatics" (herbs and seasonings) and plenty of advice on etiquette and how to order.  He provides a tantalizing glimpse of eight different establishments in Tokyo ranging from traditional to cutting edge, along with recipes and wonderful color photos. Included in this overview is izakaya Horoyoi in Ebisu, which has been a fixture in his life for years.  

This book is a fantastic introduction to izakaya and has become one of my favorite books on Japanese food culture. I only have one gripe: not a single mention of izakaya specializing in Okinawan cuisine. Considering the increasing popularity of Okinawan izakaya in Tokyo, I expected one or two Okinawan dishes to appear among the recipes, or at least a mention of awamori in the drinks chapter.  On my last couple of trips to Tokyo I noticed awamori and goya aren't served exclusively in Okinawan eateries anymore, but are becoming izakaya standards.

As for creating the "authentic" izakaya experience in California: I've had long discussions about this with many well-traveled foodies. Why is it so difficult to find places with old world ambience here, the cozy and hospitable operation serving good, simple food and affordable drink, the kind of place that proliferates in Europe or Japan? It seems the answer lies in the phrase "old world." We don't have the same kind of centuries-long history of traditions passed along by generations of dedicated artisans. We also have a different attitude towards drinking: thanks to our Puritan background, there's still a faint stigma attached to any practice that involves lingering over copious amounts of alcohol. When it comes to dining out, Americans are more about new, bold, trendy, or the "destination" crowd pleasers, especially in our current economy where restaurant turnover is higher than ever. We do many things well and with bravado, but I don't think the true izakaya or gemütlich hole-in-the-wall for locals is ever going to be a real mainstay - perhaps just another passing trend. 

Izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook by Mark Robinson

Photographs by Masashi Kuma

Published by Kodansha International

Photo: 

Skewers of ume-shiso maki that I made based on one of the book's recipes (page 130). I didn't have shiso so I used mint, which worked well. However I highly recommend trying to get shiso, which is an unbeatable match with ume and chicken.